If you were wondering why you had not yet seen Flavia de Oliveira at any of the shows in Paris, it is because she was booked exclusively for YSL this season. Too bad you can't hardly recognize her behind the wig.
Brazilians Aline Weber (who opened Balenciaga this season), Bruna Tenorio, and Raquel were also in the show. Visit Style.com for the complete collection.
Brazilian Aline Weber has had her share of opening shows in São Paulo and Rio, but up until this season her international career hadn't really taken off. Now after pretty strong bookings in New York, she managed to do the impossible: Aline opened Balenciaga yesterday.
Her booker's phone must be ringing non-stop today.
As for Balenciaga, it is amazing that Mr. Ghesquiere took the daring shapes he presented for spring to a complete new realm. And if I may add, I loved it that he opened with some fuck me heels. View the collection at Style.com, and watch it on video here.
I know my review is way overdue, but I was busy working and covering the shows in São Paulo. In any event, here is my take on the action in Paris.
Start channeling your inner lumberjack now: fall 2008 is going to be all about tartan and plaid.
Like he did at Jil Sander, Raf Simons placed his bets on a chunkier shoe sole, and on a combo of abstract prints. It is not as strong as his spring collection, but a lot more commercial (especially if you are tall and skinny).
Stefano Pilati did not host a proper show at YSL, but designed a perfect fall wardrobe for those craving some 70's revival (think The Ice Storm).
Prada did some protective helmets (in fur) a few seasons ago, but it was Louis Vuitton who turned protective gear up a notch this time around. Get a scooter as an excuse to buy an LV helmet come fall.
Kris Van Assche turned on the bizarre button at his first runway presentation for Dior Homme, with the palest boys around, shrunken jackets, billowing shirt sleeves, and pants which were either glued to the body as leggings or multi-pleated for super volume at the knee. I liked the butterflies worn as bow ties, but that was it.
Strangely all the positiveness missing at Dior could be found at Van Assche's collection for his own label, probably my favorite show in Paris when it comes to items I actually want to own and wear.
Lanvin was one of my favorite collections last spring, but I can't say the same for fall. The topcoat worn with gloves, rolled up satin pants, and shiny black shoes was what I liked the most. Other than that, pay attention to the bigger sole and put your name down on the waiting list for the brown Chelsea boots.
JP Gaultier sent out a fantastic parade of modern day dandies, with many more wearable pieces than his latest presentations.
You can choose between a top hat at Comme des Garcons, a bowler at Gaultier, or several variations on the theme at Junya Watanabe, Yamamoto, Miharayasuhiro, and Lanvin. Just know that you will need a hat come fall.
Broaden your shoulders with a jacket by Margiela, and while you are at it make sure to pick up his super villain sunglasses.
With Evandro and Michael Camiloto absent from the runways, Lucas Mascarini became Paris' favorite Brazilian.
Keep a close eye on models Ricardo Merini and Augusto.
There are many things I could say about the Galliano show, but instead I will just leave you with the three images below and pray that it will turn into another hot and twisted editorial at Arena Homme.
Visit men.style.com for pictures of all the collections.
Because of the Paris' couture shows, São Paulo Fashion Week was depleted of top models in the past few days. Vivi Orth, Bruna Tenorio, and Daiane Conterato did a few shows in Brazil before flying to Europe, but Flavia de Oliveira skipped the fall collections here.
Below the four of them at the Christian Dior spring 2008 couture show.
Only John Galliano would send out model Andre Ziehe half naked at the fall shows.
My review of the Paris' collections is coming later in the week.
Brazilians Ricardo Merini and Thomaz de Oliveira at Kris Van Assche, my favorite collection so far in Paris this season.
