Made in Brazil

It's Fashion Week In Milan And...

Miuccia Prada switched gears as expected, and the summer explosion of prints and patterns muted into a somber palette for fall. While some of the looks had almost a clerical note to me, others induced a strange new take on sensuality thanks to the designer's obsession with lace. The clothes are revealing but the tone is austere and almost frigid: an unexpected approach or response to the lingerie trend of this summer.

Raf Simons is certainly one of the brightest designers around: he is conceptual and yet practical. His collection for Jil Sander featured some of the most exquisitely tailored dresses and draped coats of the season.

I cannot avoid but to feel that Tomas Maier and Raf Simons were on the same page this season in creating clothes which can outlast their seasons and justify their cost. Maier's jackets and dresses at Bottega Veneta were user-friendly (or wearable, however you wanna put it) but also interesting and modern-looking.

Is it just me or did the Burberry collection looked like a parade of Christopher Bailey's old hits? For a label that used to be moving forward, that is not a compliment.

Searching for the missing plaid at Burberry? D&G women's collection had enough of it to get you through a lifetime in the English country.

I did not think Donatella would ever be the inspiration for a Ferragamo show. Since when is the label's customer the sexed up eyeliner-wearing slut we saw on the runway? Talk about hiring the wrong designer...

Frida Giannini's collection for Gucci may have stirred away from trends we have seen on other runways this season, but it was right on target when it comes to what I would expect from Gucci. If you are going for minimalism next fall, shop at another label. Giannini embellished every inch of fabric possible.

Wanna know what was my favorite look at the Armani show? This one.

Isabeli Fontana opened for Roberto Cavalli. Now where the hell is Raquel Zimmermann this season?

Maybe am going crazy, but is next fall going to be all about the shift dress, wool jersey, origami pleats, marble-like prints, and ugly shoes? Yes, ugly shoes seem to be a trend already. I have not yet seen any footwear this season that blew my mind.

Enough of me, head over to Cathy Horyn's blog to read what the queen has to say about the latest shows in Milan.

It's Fashion Week In Milan And...

As much as I like a smokey eye, Frida Giannini needs to stay away from the eyeliner at Gucci.

I love Miuccia's new take on sex at the office, and her reinvention of the chastity belt.

Designer Raf Simmons went for monoprintatic as opposed to monochromatic at Jil Sander, reinvented plaid, and suggested a much chunkier shoe sole for fall.

How odd is it that both Prada and Jil Sander sent out a red and an blue suit one after the other?

Is it just me or do all the Missoni boys look like they came straight from the pages of an 80's editorial? Do not try the kind of layering you saw on the runway at home please. I loved the strap used to hold the paper on a gray jacket though.

At Versace, Donatella sent out a parade of some of the best jackets produced by the house in a long time. My favorite pieces were a double-breasted cardigan, a belted jacket worn by Noah, and the beaded pants worn with a black sweater an an alternative to a classic eveningwear look.

Is it the end of the skinny jeans era? Tomais Maier proposed a new proportion for trousers at Bottega Veneta, but my feeling is it is not going to take off. His eveningwear, however, was my favorite so far in Milan.

Neil Barrett turned out the best nylon jackets of the season.

There were no surprises at DSquared2 this season, but still the twin designers sent out some great snow boots and bags.

D&G featured enough plaid and shearlings to take you through a decade of winter at the mountains.

The blanket is the new scarf, and McQueen has dozens of tips on how to wear it next fall.

Start saving now because you are going to be needing an item in croc (or at least in a croc pattern).

This Fendi sweater is what luxury is all about.

How clever is that Marni offered a pullover blazer?

Is this a cape or a trench? You tell me.

Aside from a leopard-print fur coat, Cavalli took a chill pill this season and forgot to have his collection embroidered.

Who cares if these are the fall collections? Frankie Morello sent out a parade of shirtless male models in construction hats anyway.

Andre Ziehe is probably the Brazilian with the most bookings this season, walking for Emporio Armani, Bottega Veneta, Versace, and others.

Wondering why Evandro is not in any of the shows? The model is in Brazil on vacation.

Dolce & Gabbana Pump Up The Volume For Fall

It is not often that I wish I were 10 degrees below zero, but the freezing weather is all I can think about after looking at the Dolce & Gabbana fall/ winter 2008 show in Milan. I love all the shearlings, the blanket-like scarves, the loose oversized sweaters, and the eveningwear parade punctuated by skinny ties in the end. All and all, a perfect boho meets English country fantasy, and not a single item I would not wear. My favorite pieces were a copper fur-lined down jacket, and a croc shearling.

The cast included Brazilian models David Jensen, Ricardo Merini, Alexandre Cunha, Andre Ziehe, and Carlos Sander. Question: where were Evandro and Michael Camiloto?

Make sure to take a look at the runway video and backstage pictures of the show.

More images of the Dolce & Gabbana spring 2008 campaign after the jump.