You can always count on John Galliano to send out a parade of oiled up shirtless models down the runway. His take on war this season resulted in a great selection of camo cargos and military jackets. One can only wish terrorists looked this hot. Missing was the sexy swimwear from last spring.

You can always count on Jean Paul Gaultier to send out a model in a skirt and a model in a sailor hat. Chad White was the victim of both looks this season.

And what about Gaultier's take on swimwear? For evening dress?

I predict the return of the cargo pocket and a lot of transparency. It was seen in Milan, and abused by Yohji Yamamoto in Paris.

Have Junya Watanabe and Thom Browne been hanging out lately?

Comme des Garcons took on layering (jackets) for spring, and I really liked the plaid jackets with cropped sleeves.

Kris Van Assche is one of my favorite menswear designers now. His clothes have a young and clean attitude that I admire, which unfortunately were not as obvious here as they were in seasons past. I am going to forgive him for the oversized shirts he proposed for spring because he was probably nervous now that he is also in charge of Dior Homme.

Hedi Slimane gave way to Mr. Van Assche at Dior Homme, but the designer left little clue as to where exactly he is going with the label. Is the era of the skinny jeans over?

The off-the-shoulder look seen at Emporio Armani in Milan was also present at Ann Demeulemeester.

Marc Jacobs is tanned and dating a 20-year-old, and I wish I had seen more of that reflected in the clothes at Louis Vuitton. As beautiful and sophisticated as they were, I miss the chic sex appeal of his spring 2006. The hats are very Lanvin fall 2007.

Raf Simons once again designed one of the best men's collections of the season, with the best (and by far most innovative) selection of anoraks, high-tech jackets, and sandals for spring. The sunglasses are also destined to become a big hit.

I have been obsessed with Lanvin's menswear since last season. I love the modern approach on volumes, and the ease of it all. By now every guy must already know that he should invest in a jacket with contrast trim, shorts, and a high-tech nylon anorak.

Pilati's approach on shapes and volume at YSL for spring was super chic and cool, with dropped shoulders, boxy jackets, double-breasted shirts, and paint-spattered shoes.

He doesn't get mentioned here much, but Lucas Mascarini was probably the Brazilian with the most bookings in Paris this season.

How good do Stefano Pilati and Kris Van Assche look by the way? They should date.